Incorporating a color border (the mat) all over your artwork improves the picture and delivers a restful spot between the picture along with the photo body. The colour and dimension with the mat board needs to be made the decision initial, as this tends to decide the general dimensions of one's picture frame. You start by calculating the external measurement in the mat.
To cut the mat make use of a high quality bevel mat cutter and ruler. You'll find several cutting methods to fit several budgets and skill ranges, such as the Mat Grasp Model 660 for that hobbyists, to your Mat Learn 860B or 1060B to the keen household photograph framer.
Mark the borders being reduce on the back of your mat board.
Make certain the mat will address the sides in the artwork, by subtracting approx. 3mm or 1/8" in the graphic dimension (size & width). Reduce the mat following the instructions for your mat cutter. Attach the picture to the mat using 2 small pieces of acid free tape around the top edge only.
Action 2 - The way to Lower the picture Body
How much photograph frame moulding material will I need? Carefully measure the image and mat you wish to frame. Add an extra (3mm) for "play" to ensure the image fits easily into the finished photograph body.
Add the duration (L) and width (W) together, then multiply the total by 2 to give you the overall length. You also have to allow for the mitre cuts, so multiply the width (W2) with the moulding by 10 and add this to your total.
(L W) x 2 (W2 x 10) = TOTAL
Earning the 45 degree mitre slash in your framing material is most important - your joining will only be as good as your chopping. Always make use of a good quality manual Mitre Saw... we recommend the Proman hand saw which is made in Sweden as the best within the market. Electric powered Drop Saws are not ideal for slicing small delicate picture frames.
Superior Measure System helps to make measuring simple and eliminates many mistakes. Once you have reduce the first mitre, slide the picture frame material along into the required size around the measuring scale, and set the stop. You are now ready to cut the initial 2 pieces of one's photograph frame. Change the settings to chop the other 2 sides from the body.
Cutting one side for a body is simple.
Cutting the second side to generally be be the same as the first, is the hard part. With the FrameCo Ezy-Measure System you can minimize accurately every time.
Step 3 - How to Clamp Frames
How do you Clamp the Body? Clamping the frame tightly is essential for superior joining. You can use the a Cord Clamp, or the Steel Strap Clamp to secure the image body ready for joining.
The advantage with the Strap Clamp is that you can see all the four corners from the photograph frame clamped together before joining. So alignment from the corners is easy.
All corners should match up evenly. Apply a little wood glue to all corners with the frame for added strength. Carefully tension the clamp producing confident that the corners are aligned then secure the clamp tightly.
You are now ready for joining.
Move 4 - Ways to Join Frames
Most photo frames are joined with a V-Nail. This is the easiest method and it is what the professional image framer uses. The FrameCo PushMaster joining tool, inserts V-Nails into the corner with the frame. Two V-Nails in each corner is usually all that is necessary.
The PushMaster can be used by hand alone on most photo frames, or you can tap the PushMaster with a mallet if the frame is hardwood. The PushMaster can be upgraded into the BenchMaster® which will insert V-Nails into the harderst of timbers.
V-nails: How do they work?
Upon entry, the sides of the V-Nail are deflected outwards. As it pulls back again into its original shape, the join is pulled together. The little curl over the edge of the V-Nail locks the nail into the grain of the timber. Glue alone is not sufficient for strong stable joints, by including a V-Nail you achieve a strong, tight joint. Which V-Nail size . . . You make use of a V-Nail about 1/2 the body height.
Take the empty image body to a glass merchant and have them lower a piece of glass for you. If you wish to chop glass yourself use a good quality oil filled cutter, or the Glass Cutter. Use only 2mm plain or non-reflective glass.
Fome Core is the ideal backing board as it is light weight, acid free and simple to chop. You can also use 3mm MDF or cardboard. Place the empty body face down and insert the glass, then the matted picture and lastly the backing board.
Use the PushMaster to insert brads or flexipoints into the rear within your image body to hold everything in place.
Use Backing Nails for large frames or heavy items. Flexipoints are flexible and ideal for needlework or when you want to re move the picture, eg. photo frames.
To seal the artwork in the frame, tape over the brads/flexipoints using a fantastic top quality backing tape. This tends to prevent dust or insects getting into the image.